ATM Dramas – A Rant!

ATM experiences in Cusco

We love living in a First World Country where $2 ATM withdrawal fees are merely an annoyance when using another bank’s ATM. God forbid being charged a fee overseas at the ATM then another hefty one back home for having the cheek to use a different bank. For the life of us we never did find NAB or Commonwealth Bank anywhere in South or Central America! In addition, no Australian Travel Card has the ability to load ANY South or Central American currency. US$ on Travel cards also f@ck all use unless you are happy paying $5 per transaction PLUS 5% exchange fee!!
Fortunately, Citibank have a handy, fee free card that is free for transactions and charges no fees for ATM withdrawals. Some local banks tickle you for a few bucks, many, especially those with Citibank affiliations are free. Just the exchange rate at the time.
First ATM withdrawal was in Lima, Peru. In goes the card, PIN entered, 400 SOL please, (About AU$160), clunk clunk, whir whir! Receipt first, thankyou for your transaction. More clunks and whirring! Screen flashes up a message.. TRANSACTION CANCELLED, PLEASE TRY AGAIN. Not fucking likely! Same procedure in a different flavour of ATM ended with the desired 400 SOL in the wallet. End of story? Not so fast! Back in our accommodation, we check Citibank Online to find TWO X $160 withdrawals! Transaction cancelled my arse! To make matters worse, all communication with Citibank has to begin by obtaining a secure PIN through your mobile. No dramas in Oz. No dramas if you are on a fully paid plan whilst travelling the world. No use at all when the d!ckheads in the Telstra shop have set you up on a plan that has no coverage in most of South America. No problem, will find somewhere to make a phonecall in Cusco tomorrow..
Remember those dodgy phone booths in Internet Cafes that you could use and pay when finished? That is as good as it gets in Cusco and pretty sure it was the only one in town. Heaps of fun as you navigate your way through the infinite number of options before arriving at the not wholly unexpected, please enter your 4 digit one time PIN number! Are you fucking kidding? Shouting OPERATOR into the handset a lot and jabbing the 0 key a few times got me to a slightly more promising, “Please hold whilst we transfer you to an operator”. Please hold whilst the counter over the telephone shows the cost of this call escalating faster than Australia’s National Debt!
Eventually, I am informed by a very distant, but very helpful lady that this is a rare occurrence but will take up to 90 business days to solve.
Rare occurrence?! 2 days later, different card, different bank, 700 SOL please. You have to be kidding? Same script as last time! This time however, we are in a bank branch and go straight to the counter with the hope of a swift resolution. No chance! The ATMs are operated by a third party, you must contact your bank in Australia and have them investigate. Personally, I would have thought the easiest solution would be for you to hand me the 700 SOL that my statement currently informs me should be in my sticky hand! Back to the phone booths tomorrow!
Then to add insult to injury, this bank only allow ONE ATM withdrawal per month, anywhere in their network. Including incomplete withdrawals that effectively steal your cash for 90 business days.
OK, 89 business days later, both transactions were reversed. We are still nervous every time we use an ATM, waiting for the folding stuff to emerge!!

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Arrive in Cusco 5/11/17

Almost immediately we knew that we had arrived somewhere special! Cobbled streets, color, lambs, llamas, markets!!

Cusco is 14,000ft above sea level and boy do you feel it when you arrive! We got a cab to our hostel and we’re greeted with coco tea, to help with the altitude dizziness!!!

Our hostel Kurumi was perfect for us! Own room with ensuite, views and breakfast included, only $140 for 5 nights!! Walking distance to the main square and surrounded by wonderful little restaurants!!

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Farewell Lima

Farewell Lima.

Mixed emotions leaving here. Wonderful memories and history mixed into a big, busy City. Fortunately, most of the tourists and the rubbish that sustains them looks over the crumbling cliffs. If big hotels, casinos and European priced eateries are your bag you won’t have far to walk!

Real Lima is not far away and most of the places we ate in will never appear in Lonely Planet or the TripAdvisor Top 10. Cr@pped ourselves a couple of times and struggled with our limited Spanish. Tiny markets hidden off side streets with displays that put most shops to shame. Simply fabulous and food that is bordering on free!

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Huaca Pucllana!!

No, not a profanity or a spelling mistake! A ceremonial centre that pre-dates the Incas by about 1000 years. It is right here in the centre of Miraflores in Lima. No 4 day oxygen deprived hike to reach it, just a 25 min stroll from where we are staying!

This is a handmade, mud brick structure from 1600+ years ago. Showing her age a little but well worth the massive $5 entry with 1 hour guided tour. Archeological work expected to take another 25 years to complete! Time and traffic have their own rules here!

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Mistura- One serious eating event!

Our host at the B&B was a little concerned about us going to Rimac and requested we left the area by 4pm!!!

Although a little apprehensive our stomachs won and off we went in search of this once a year food festival.

The ride was a little hairy but the food and pisco sours spectacular!

We sampled cerviche, spit roasted pork, skewered alpaca, tripe and potato stew, we couldn’t bring ourselves to try guinea pig yet! As you can see in the picture below they look like skewered rats!!

A local tradition, with crazy Favela in the background!

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Lima

After a 3:30 am start and no sleep due to the noise at our hostel, we arrived at Larq’a Park, a gorgeous B&B bang in the middle of Miraflores. Both feeling a little jaded, we went for a walk to the popular beach front!! First impressions NOT GOOD! Very touristy, full of the normal crap fast food restaurants that we are never interested at home let alone in S. America!! Feeling tired and hungry, we turned away in disgust and headed back into town!!

We stopped at a tourist booth and spoke to a local boy asking where to find something to eat where locals go!! Jackpot hit!!!

Off we go in search. We end up at a huarique “a hiding place”. It is a traditional small family run establishment known for the excellence of their cuisine. The huarique we stumbled upon was called El Gran Combo. We had a couple of local beers, a duck and garlic dish and tuna cerviche and came away with a list of ideas for other food places to explore. We happily waddled off back to our B&B for an early shut eye.

Tomorrow we visit Mistura, a food festival which sounds amazing. However, the reputation of its location is said to be one of the most dangerous areas in Peru!!!

Night night

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Last day in Santiago

Our last day in Santiago, after going back to the restaurant to pay our bill. We took a baby hike up to the top of Cerro San Cristabal. A touch more effort than we expected, slightly concerned about the 5 day slog up the Inca Trail in about 10 days time!! Back down and a baby feed in one of so many wonderful ‘hole in the wall’ eateries that exist here. Often, no idea what we are ordering, our limited Spanish is helping but much improvement required.

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First mishap second day in Santiago!!

Continue reading

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My own beer!!!

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Hello Santiago!

Our home for the next few days is here in Santiago. Quiet on a Sunday but still managed to find an awesome feed and a couple of beverages! Got ourselves caught up heading the wrong way through a massive funeral procession. Very strange not thinking about work tomorrow!!

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