Paris, City of love, reunions and black eyes!

Ahhh sweet Paris.
Paris is always a delight but made extra special when you arrive on a beautiful Spring day. We stayed in a wonderful Airbnb near the river at Bastille. Unfortunately disaster struck on our first night as I tripped and slammed my forehead onto the stairs!! Two black eyes appeared 48 hours later, not a pretty sight for the following three weeks but hey can’t let vanity spoil a good time.
The absolute highlight of Paris was when my beautiful son, Sam and girlfriend Nicole surprised me. How Bear kept this a secret from me I will never know!! But he did and between the two of them made me the happiest mum in the world. We had a fabulous fun 3 days together, wandering the streets of Paris, stopping for snail snacks and vino, eating and drinking to our hearts content. Thank you.

Good on you Sam and Nic for making the effort and popping over!

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Sin City!

Las Vegas-Sin City

Las Vegas was a place that we had always wanted to visit and we weren’t disappointed!! We loved the fast pace and craziness of the place. It was a culture shock considering we had spent the last 6 months backpacking through South and Central America. Three days just gave us a taste of the place and we were ready to leave by the end of it!! We stayed right on the strip which gave us easy access to everywhere! We sipped wine whilst watching the water fountain show at the Bellagio, visited all the main casinos and managed to see 3 shows 2 amazing one not so!!! Can’t go wrong with a spielgletent show, we watched Absinthe on our first night. Second night we managed to get a freebie show, which let’s put it this way, pleased we didn’t pay for it!!! It was called Tournament of the Kings, don’t bother unless you have kids!! Then on our final night we watch Zumanity by Cirque du Soleil, fabulous show.
Farewell Las Vegas you have been fun. Next stop Paris.

Wouldn’t be a trip to Vegas without getting stuck in!

And taking an obligatory poo in the Bellagio! Somehow the chap in the next door trap didn’t find my sense of humour amusing when I helped myself to his toilet roll that conveniently dangled within reach!

So much fun, so little time!!!

Mission accomplished, job done! Paris next…

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Mexico – La Paz

Didn’t plan on doing it, but managed to travel from Cancun on the East coast to La Paz in the West. Anyone who has played GO, the travel game will know that La Paz is a bastard to get in and out of. The reality is far worse! Managed to escape from El Chapo’s chums in Los Mochis and hopped onto the overnight ferry to La Paz. Also avoided the mustachioed chappy requesting 350 pesos for the ride into town! A gentle 100 pesos into the hand of a bus driver saw us delivered 100 yards from our apartment. Nearly 6 months and a stack of Airbnb’s, this one probably takes the podium! Awesome unit, 100% kitted out, jacuzzi on the roof, 2 streets from the water!

Six months, several thousand kilometres, a stack of fun and a lifetime of memories. We close the South and Central America chapter and head to Vegas for a few days relaxation, meditation and culture!!

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Copper Canyon. An absolute highlight!!

This was a place I was intrigued about and although we knew it was hard to get too and in a “no go area” my curiosity only grew. El Chepe is the last passenger train in Mexico, it runs through the Copper Canyon from Chihuahua to Las Mochis, stopping at various stops along the way. The total distance is 675km, we chose to do two stops, one in Creel for one night and two in Barancas. Our decision was based on what there was to do and see at each place. Creel is just a really nice little mountain village, with chalet type accommodation and a few nice bars. There are tours to do but nothing that interested us.

Divisadero is a stop before our next stay over. The train stops for 20 mins here and people get off to see the amazing views of the Copper Canyon. But there is no where to stay here, so our advice is get off look at the views and jump straight back on to the at the next station and book into the hotel Posada Mirador Biranca.

This place although outside our normal daily budget was worth every single cent. Our room overlooked the Canyon and was spacious and tasteful.

The reason we chose to stay two nights here was simply, best views ever AND the Adventure Park, hosting 8 zip lines including the longest in the world measuring a distance of 2.5km.  The views and adrenaline match a tandem skydive!! Obviously for Bear and me, we just loved it!!!

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Mexico – San Cristobal de Las Casas to Chihuahua

One of these places is a fabulous town in the hills of Mexico, the other is an annoying breed of dog and apparently a town too!

We had plans and tickets booked at this stage to see Celine Dion in Vegas. Sadly or otherwise depending on opinion, she has cancelled Spring dates so different plans now required! Vegas and the US or Mexico? Jax had mentioned the Copper Canyon about 400 times but it was way too difficult to get to and smack bang in the heart of Mexico’s Cartel heartland, Sinaloa! US travel advice for Sinaloa, “Do not travel”. Let’s go!!!

Beautiful San Cristobal, unbelievable food, crazy hostel and a 24 hour hangover! The Church at San Juan Chamula has its own cult and NO cameras allowed. Beheading chooks in church is OK! Scoffing fizzy beverages to release bad spirits OK too! Sounds like Dee Why Beach!

Cooked for the staff and owners at the hostel here and happily waved the Aussie victory flag at the fooze table!

Oaxaca on the way to Chihuahua…

Yes! We tried Mole!

Copper Canyon with El Chepe next… Did someone mention ziplines?

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Mexico – Palenque

Back on the bus for the trip into the jungle and the ruins at Palenque. Should be just over 4 hours? Unless of course some of the friendly locals put up road blocks with armed men. 2 choices then! Short route… run the risk of a hefty delay and negotiating the cost of passage with Pablo & Co. There is also the very real possibility on this route of further blockades as you go. Once you pass through one blockade, you pay again if you want to turn back!! Long route 11 hours plus, but a more guaranteed arrival without the haircuts and taco/tequila tasting tours!

12 hours later we get to the town of Palenque! Not a lot going for this town unless you are heading to the ruins. So, early to bed and alarms set to beat the ‘selfie stick set’ in the morning.

Ruins open at 8, so we loiter around the bus station at 7ish hoping to grab a ride in a Collectivo taking the staff to work. Before you could say quesadilla, a packed minibus pulls over and we are on our way.

The early arrival did the trick and we had a good hour or so before the tour busses deposited the hordes. Oh wow..

Awesome stuff! Tour busses arrive, Bear and Jackie grab a local bus back to town to enjoy the heat of the day in the company of a cold cerveza or two. A perfect day out! Early start again in the morning for the bus to San Cristobal….

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Mexico – Campeche and the Mayan Ruins at Edzna

Here we go again! Another City we had never heard of, another cobblestoned colonial Spanish Capital in rural Mexico. Campeche is almost dreamy! Colourful painted houses, immaculate streets and a fabulous walled historic district. Just for giggles it is also only a short trip to the Mayan ruins at Edzna

Compared to Cuba, rural Mexico seems more like Tokyo! Everything works, transport is easy, efficient and cheap. OK, so there is a bit of strife with the Cartels, avoiding the dodgy looking blokes with AK47s is definitely the way forward!

Checking in, we hear the words that are seldom uttered to backpack carrying types… “We have upgraded you!” Turns it’s the Master Suite, the nicest room in the hotel”. Don’t mind if we do…

Own personal courtyard and entry, outdoor jacuzzi. Nearly needed a Segway to make the trek to the bathroom.

Cheap eats in the market. 20 Pesos, (About AU$1.3), buys roast pork in a baguette, yum.

Just a joy wandering around town

Unless of course some bafoon starts hacking open a coconut right next to your head!

Night time in the main square, they put on a Vivid style light show on one of the buildings, maybe they haven’t noticed that it’s the same show every night! Pretty cool

Mexico has this wonderful system of Collectivos, cars, vans or trucks that ferry you from town to town for next to nothing. As soon as it is full, it leaves. Not sure how NSW Highway Patrol would react to 20 unrestrained passengers including a few on stools and the occasional child in lap! We jumped into one of these to get to the ruins at Edzna

Edzna is a smaller version of Chicken Schnitzel. Just way less people. Even in the middle of the afternoon, we pretty much had the place to ourselves

A privilege!!

Off to Palenque next…

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Playa Giron – Bay of Pigs

Bahia de Cochinos, Playa Giron. Probably looks the same today as it did in April 1961. Just one less CIA stuff up! Compared to the structural disaster of Havana, this is tropical paradise and home to seriously good beach dives. Yes, scuba diving where you leave thongs on the beach, head into the water and don fins! Wrecks, walls, coral, lobsters and countless fish just a few steps away from the shore. Visibility still crystal clear at 30m and not a bleached coral in sight!

Airbnb teamed us up with a local family and we stayed in a room in their house for a few days. There is no way to escape the failed economics of Cuba, but wonderful seeing people finding ways to make it work. Casa Particulars are taxed at around 50%. A few mojitos, breakfasts or dinners, not so much!

Communication down here not a strong point. Official bus receipt looked awesome for our return to Havana!

Awesome people, awesome diving, too many mojitos!

Back to Havana where our last host had evicted his parents from their room to fit us in. Slightly wierd, much more than slightly uncomfortable but a very real insight in to life here. Eye-opening does not do this justice!!

Thankyou xxx

Back to Mexico…

 

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Cuba-Havanna

Arriving in Cuba is like walking out of a time machine and being catapulted backwards to the 1950’s. Somewhat less than half the lights in the baggage hall work and the female staff look more like prostitutes than officials. Miniskirts and fishnets clearly the go here! Once through the queues of immigration, the first thing you have to do is change money, as it is a closed currency, which means it cannot be bought in or taken out of the country. Cuba is mainly a cash economy, so you need to estimate what you are going to need and take a currency that they will change, Euro’s, Canadian dollars or Mexican pesos. US dollars have an added 10% charge so best avoid US dollars. ATM’s difficult to come by, any bank affiliated with the US means your card won’t work, so take enough cash to cover your whole trip.

Once out the airport it is not the amount of taxis that await you but the type of old, once fashionable cars!! We jumped into an pre-arranged car. Our cabbie was very proud to share with us his car was 38 years old and running beautifully.

We arrived in Havana to be greeted by our host Yandy. Staying with a local family in a casa particular provides the most comfortable and authentic experience. We stayed in Centro Havana, amongst the locals. Although from the outside our building looked like it was falling down, the actual apartment was basic but stylish.

We enjoyed a few days in Havana, wandering the streets, taking in the sites by horse and carriage, eating in local restaurants, sipping rum and trying to get to grips with the whole post Revolutionary situation that Fidel has left his country in. It’s hard to see how this country is going to survive, with buildings falling down, shops devoid of produce, food difficult to come by and professionals turning their back on their once respected careers to sell souvenirs to tourists because they cannot survive on their meagre income.

Our horse and carriage tour guide, was a nurse but had to give it up because he couldn’t survive on the $32 a month he earned. He now earns $25 per guided tour which he shares with the driver. They do on average 3 tours a day.

Found a bloke upstairs one evening cutting hair, so asked him to fit me in. Maybe an error in the Spanish, or maybe just no gold necklace to tell him where to stop clipping!

Traveling through Cuba is not for the faint hearted and has its unique set of challenges. The main one being little to NO internet. With hot spots in various squares round the city, you see hundreds of people desperately trying to connect to the internet. At best it’s painfully slow, most of the time non-existent.

We had read that scuba diving in Cuba was one of the best in the world. With the warm, crystal blue colored waters we just couldn’t resist. In Cuba you have to buy your bus ticket one day before you travel. This has to be done by person at the station that you leave from. This is very frustrating as the cost of a cab to the bus station costs more that the actual bus ticket!!!!

Next day our bus was 4 hours late, not explanation given! Eventually it turned up and Bears seat was broken. We took it upon ourselves to move once the bus started but were soon shouted at by the driver!!

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Mexico – Merida

OK so, Merida next. Let’s grab a couple of bus tickets online then hop onto the appropriate ferry to meet the bus? No! Only Mexicans can buy online and there is no option through travel agents either. Tickets can only be bought at the bus station. No worries, we know the bus is 5pm so will get to the bus station around 1, buy our tickets and find a suitable establishment for comfort until the bus comes. All good, except for a couple of flies in the ointment. No bus station for tickets, (Buy on bus!), No suitable establishment! Bugger, 4 hours sitting in 40 degree heat could be our afternoon entertainment!

Bump into a Californian, (They don’t say American!), and a German to fill up a cab to a place where we should get a Collectivo bus to Merida. 2 hours and several armed point stops later we get to Tizimin.

Tagged another collectivo to Merida and nipped off for a nibble!

Dumped in Merida somewhere, we find an internet cafe for a trip to good old booking.com and find a bed!

Can’t explain the magic of this place on arriving. Balcony over the square. Grins all round

Merida got rich making sisal fibre out of cactus until nylon came along and spoiled the party!

Walking around the streets, a lot of people made a lot of cash before nylon!

Markets anywhere around the world are a must, Merida is no different. Giant tortilla making machines that eat balls of dough and churn out cooked tortillas and the ubiquitous roast piggie, this time with a black pudding made from blood, brains and other yummy stuff!

These chairs were supposedly designed by an architect who didn’t want boys to get too fiddly with his daughter. This is a giant, Andrew Moon sized example, but the squares around the city are dotted with standard size examples

Restaurants and suitable establishments for escaping the heat are plenty

Havana, Cuba next. We have been on and off about going since we left home. No more faffing about….

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